In back, padded stools swing before a dark bar edged in bamboo and illuminated with so many lanterns. The name is an homage to a shuttered neighborhood favorite, the exterior a gleefully faux pagoda and gold-painted stone facade.
Image: Sara Marie D'Eugenio Newer Arrivals New Luck Toy The location at 35th and Fauntleroy is a franchise of the original institution in SoDo, and step one in Pecos Pit’s plans to go big.
They’re here for various iterations of smoked meat, drenched in sauce, and accompanied by classic barbecue sides. Barbecue purists might scoff at these smoked meat sandwiches, which bear more than a passing resemblance to a sloppy joe, but legions of local fans lined up at the counter aren’t here to parse barbecue semantics. Brioche sandwich buns and burn-your-lips-off sauce. But the kitchen has added more housemade ingredients and, even better, online reservations. The menu-a lengthy compendium of sashimi, rolls, combo options, and cooked dishes-remains a rigorous ode to sustainable seafood. These days, three longtime employees own and run this tiny dining room, with its avocado walls and friendly hodgepodge decor, and continue its essential presence in the neighborhood. In 2009, Hajime Sato thrust his West Seattle sushi bar into unfamiliar, more tenable waters, making Mashiko the city’s first all-sustainable sushi restaurant. (Well, in our current Covid reality, the kitchen does a limited menu for takeout, but it centers on fried chicken.) Mashiko
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Fuller has since parlayed Ma‘ono’s golden tenders into a few chicken sandwich counters around Seattle, but full birds, and full menu, only happen on California Ave.
But the fried chicken that prompted Fuller to shift his whole concept-all-natural birds brined, soaked in buttermilk, then thrice fried-remain the best thing about this place. Now it’s hard to imagine Seattle’s dining scene before his saimin noodle bowl and kimchi cheese–topped burger on a King’s Hawaiian bun took center stage. Back in 2012, Mark Fuller transformed his high-end Spring Hill Restaurant into Ma‘ono-more casual, more affordable, way more Hawaiian.
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